1950s Research

 

1950s Research:

Makeup in the beginning was still rationed as rationing was in place until 1954 in the UK, however makeup became a lot more glamorous, the 1950s “was a time of growth of prosperity” (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014). 1950s makeup consisted of a bold red lip with elegant eyes.

Eyebrows were shaped and defined using an eyebrow pencil, the ends of the eyebrows could be extended, and the main feature of the eyebrows was the strong arch. Eyebrows were also of medium thickness-very thick, thin eyebrows was no longer desired (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

The eyebrows of various 1950s icons. (Top-Left to Right): Sophia Loren, Audrey Hepburn, and Liz Taylor. (Bottom-Left to Right): Diana Dors, Marilyn Monroe, and Grace Kelly.

The “doe-eyed look” was still popular in the early 1950s, however, by the middle of this decade the cat-eye was desirable. Emphasizing the eyes was now a trend and an eyeliner pencil was used to do this, a line across the upper lash line and a flick. The flick varied in lengths from small to long and extended, the size of the flick depended on the wearer. Eyeliner pencils were available in various colours, including, black, brown, and grey along with shades of green, blue, and purple (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Eyeshadow application was minimal and 1 matte eyeshadow was usually applied to the upper lid then blended out, up towards to the eyebrow creating a wing shape. In the late 1950s, guanine, which came from fish scales and guano, could be added to the eyes to create a shimmer, popular eyeshadow shades came in the colours grey, brown, blue, green, and purple (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Eye makeup advice from Dorothy Gray (1954).

A matte base was fashionable, foundation was matched to the skin tone as much as possible and being lighter or slightly darker was no longer desired. Foundations had pink and peachy undertones and came in liquid, cream, and cake form. Pan cake foundation was extremely popular during the 1950s and in 1953, Max Factor released the Creme Puff which was the first all-in-one foundation and powder which allowed women to apply their base and powder together. Powder would be pressed into the skin using a powder puff to give a matte finish then a powder brush or cotton pad was used to remove the excess powder from the face (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Lipstick was the strongest element of 1950s makeup and red was the colour of the decade. Lipstick was matte; however, a sheen could be created by adding Vaseline or a lip pomade, some women would also lick their lips to add a sheen. A layer of lipstick was applied and could be powdered to set it; however, this was optional then it was blotted using a tissue and a second layer was applied. The first long-lasting lipstick was created in 1950, no-smear lipstick was invented by Hazel Bishop and it was instantly popular (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014). 

Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn

Block mascara was still used but cream mascara sold in a tube was released in the 1950s, this was released by both Max Factor and Helena Rubinstein, mascara was mostly sold in black and brown, however, more colours such as navy blue, emerald green, grey, pistachio, and violet were also available (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Singer Lita Roza applying block mascara (1953).

An oval face shape was considered to be the perfect face shape so rouge was used to do this, it was also used to create a warm, soft glow so it was used around the face specifically the cheeks, temples and forehead. Rouge was used sparingly, and liquid and creams were used after foundation but before powder and powder rouges were used after face powder (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014). 

Makeup advice from Revlon's booklet "For A Lovelier You" (1959)

In 1954, Max Factor released the first concealer called Erace and it was sold in stick form, in1952, boots relaunched its No. 7 range and the black and gold packaging was influenced by Hollywood and Avon became popular as they would go to peoples houses to sell their cosmetics. Skin care products became extremely popular and it became acceptable for teenagers to wear makeup. They mostly wore lipstick rather than a full face of makeup and brands started to release products aimed at teenagers, this included products for acne and magazines aimed at teenagers became popular (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Stars such as Grace Kelly, Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Dorothy Dandridge, Doris Day, and Elizabeth Taylor had a huge influence on the style and trends throughout the decade. TV also became extremely popular due to most people being able to pick up a TV signal and Queen Elizabeth’s coronation further increased the popularity of TV (Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook, 2014).

Rock and Roll became very popular in the 1950s and this influenced the attitudes, fashion, hair and makeup of people, specifically teenagers.

Popular haircuts included the poodle cut, this was a short and very curled style. 

Lucille Ball, Zola Taylor and Jackie Kennedy (on her wedding day) all sported a poodle cut.

The Italian cut, which was very similar to the poodle cut, however, the curls weren’t as tight. 

Gina Lollobrigida and Elizabeth Taylor wearing the carefree yet elegant Italian Cut

The soft bob was also like the poodle cut, however, the curls were brushed out, so they formed more of a wave shape.

The cube cut was a popular hair cut with a fringe; the hair was cut mid-ear length to create an angular look.

The pixie cut also became popular, this was a short, layered hair style with a high-cut fringe which meant that it was almost masculine. 

Audrey Hepburn with a pixie cut

A pageboy hairstyle was also very popular, this consisted of a smooth bob varying in lengths from short to shoulder length, with a wave at the front of sides. 

Curled under ends of the pageboy

Longer hair could be left down, or it could be tied back into a ponytail, in the 1950s this was known as a horsetail and was popular among teenagers, this was also seen on early versions of Barbie dolls. 

(Top Left): Audrey Hepburn's pony and high fringe. (Bottom Left): Bettie Page's high fringe and long hair. (Main): A mid-ponytail known as the horsetail.

Pin curls became popular along with perming the hair which set the hair for longer periods of time. Flowers, headbands, scarves, and hats were popular hair accessories. 

(Clockwise from top left): a red juliet cap, flowerpot hat (1953), winged and veiled hat (1953), yellow circle hat, winged pillbox, bouffant brim and classic pillbox.

Harvey Glatman was a serial killer who was active in the 1950s, however, his crimes began before then. He would burgle homes and he then started to target the homes of attractive women, he would then sexually assault them and leave afterwards, he continued to do this for many years until he committed his first murder in 1957. His first murder was 19-year-old Judy Dull, she contacted him about a modelling job, and he tied her up and after the photoshoot, he raped her multiple times. He then made her cuddle with him and watch TV, later that night he drove over 100 miles and strangled her to death using rope (Medium, No Date). 

Judy Dull via Find a Grave

His next victim was 24-year-old Shirley Bridgeford, they met through the Lonely Hearts Club which were adverts in the newspaper for people who were looking for love, after going for dinner they got back into his car he drove to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park where he held her at gun point and told her to undress, he then raped her multiple times before he tied her up and took photos of her. The bulb in his camera broke so he waited until sunrise to take more photos of her, he then strangled her and took more photos of her and once he was done he left her body in the desert (Medium, No Date). 

Shirley Bridgeford via Find a Grave

In 1958, Ruth Mercado became the 3rd victim, she was subjected to the same torture as Judy and Shirley, she was raped multiple times before being strangled with rope. Her body was found near Shirley’s and her landlord phoned the police after she had been missing for 4 days (Medium, No Date). 

Ruth Mercado via Americans Most Haunted

Lorraine Vigil was the woman who escaped, she went to Glatman about a modelling job and she resisted him when he tried to tie her up, they then fought over control of his gun until it went off, she then took the gun and ran off towards 2 police men while Glatman hid inside his car (Medium, No Date). 

Lorraine Vigil via derangedlacrimes.com

Harvey Glatman was arrested and in 1958 he plead guilty by reason of insanity and was sentenced to death for the murders of Shirley and Ruth, Judy’s body could not be found as it had been found months before and labelled as a Jane Doe. In September 1959, Glatman was executed by gas chamber when he was 31 years old (Medium, No Date).

Harvey Glatman via murderpedia

There was also outbreaks of disease in the 1950s, these included polio, scarlet fever, diphtheria, typhoid fever, yellow fever, rheumatic fever, pellagra, influenza, smallpox, and cholera.

Polio:

Many people won’t show symptoms and will not know they have it however it can be very serious and cause “temporary or permanent paralysis, which can be life threatening” (NHS, 2018). 

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A high temperature (38C or above)
  • ·         A sore throat
  • ·         Headaches
  • ·         Abdominal pain
  • ·         Aching muscles
  • ·         Vomiting

 Long term problems caused by polio can include:

  • ·         Muscle weakness
  • ·         Shrinking of the muscles (atrophy)
  • ·         Tight joints (contractures)
  • Deformities, such as twisted feet or legs 

Scarlet Fever:

“Scarlet fever is a contagious infection that mostly affects young children” (NHS, 2018)

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A high temperature of 38C or above
  • ·         A sore throat
  • ·         Swollen neck glands (a large lump on the side of your neck)
  • ·         A rash
  • ·         A white coating on the tongue



Complications can include:

  • ·         Ear infection
  • ·         Throat abscess
  • ·         Sinusitis
  • ·         Pneumonia
  • ·         Meningitis
  • ·         Rheumatic fever

Diphtheria:

“Diphtheria is a highly contagious and potentially fatal infection that can affect the nose and throat, and sometimes the skin” (NHS, 2018)

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A thick grey-white coating at the back of your throat
  • ·         A high temperature of 38C or above
  • ·         Feeling sick
  • ·         Sore throat
  • ·         Headache
  • ·         Swollen glands in your neck
  • ·         Difficulty breathing and swallowing
  • ·         Pus-filled blisters on your legs, feet, and hands
  • ·         Large ulcers surrounded by red, sore-looking skin



Typhoid fever:

“Typhoid fever is a bacterial infection that can spread throughout the body, affecting many organs” (NHS, 2018)

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A high temperature that can reach 39 to 40C
  • ·         Headache
  • ·         General aches and pains
  • ·         Cough
  • ·         Constipation

“As the infection progresses, you may lose your appetite, feel sick, and have a tummy ache and diarrhoea. Some people may develop a rash” (NHS,2018).

Yellow fever:

“Yellow fever is a serious infection spread by mosquitoes” (NHS, 2020).

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A high temperature
  • ·         Headache
  • ·         Feeling sick or vomiting
  • ·         Muscle pain and backache
  • ·         Your eyes being sensitive to light
  • ·         Loss of appetite and feeling generally unwell
  • ·         Yellowing of the skin and eyes (jaundice)
  • ·         Bleeding from the mouth, nose, eyes, or ears
  • ·         Vomiting blood or blood in poo


Rheumatic fever:

“Rheumatic fever is a very rare complication that can develop after a bacterial throat infection. It can cause painful joints and heart problems” (NHS, 2018).

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A high temperature of 38C or above
  • ·         Redness, pain and swelling of your joints (arthritis) – usually ankles, knees, wrists, or elbows
  • ·         Pain in your chest, breathlessness, and a fast heart rate
  • ·         Jerky, uncontrollable movements in your hands, feet, and face
  • ·         Tiny bumps under your skin
  • ·         Pale-red patches on your arms and tummy 

Pellagra:

“Pellagra is a disease that occurs when a person does not get enough niacin (one of the B complex vitamins) or tryptophan (an amino acid)” (Medline Plus, 2020).

Symptoms include:

  • ·         Delusions or mental confusion
  • ·         Diarrhoea
  • ·         Weakness
  • ·         Loss of appetite
  • ·         Pain in abdomen
  • ·         Inflamed mucous membrane
  • ·         Scaly skin sores, especially in sun-exposed areas of the skin 


Influenza:

Symptoms include:

  • ·         A sudden high temperature of 38C or above
  • ·         An aching body
  • ·         Feeling tired or exhausted
  • ·         A dry cough
  • ·         A sore throat
  • ·         A headache
  • ·         Difficulty sleeping
  • ·         Loss of appetite
  • ·         Diarrhoea or tummy pain
  • ·         Feeling sick and being sick

“The symptoms are similar for children, but they can also get pain in their ear and appear less active” (NHS, 2019).

Smallpox:

Smallpox is “a serious infectious disease caused by the variola virus” (CDC, 2016).

Symptoms include:

  • ·         High fever
  • ·         Head and body aches
  • ·         Sometimes vomiting
  • ·         Red spots on the tongue
  • ·         Rash on the whole body-later develops into sores

“The sores become pustules (sharply raised, usually round and firm to the touch, like peas under the skin)” (CDC,2016) these pustules then develops into scabs which later fall off, they often leave marks. 
Sores
Pustules
Scabs

Cholera:

Cholera is an infection that can be caught by “drinking unclean water, eating food (particularly shellfish) that's been in unclean water and eating food that's been handled by an infected person” (NHS, 2018).  

Symptoms include:

  • ·         Profuse watery diarrhoea
  • ·         Vomiting
  • ·         Thirst
  • ·         Leg cramps
  • ·         Restlessness or irritability

“People with severe cholera can develop severe dehydration, which can lead to kidney failure. If left untreated, severe dehydration can lead to shock, coma, and death within hours” (CDC, 2020).

Bibliography:

Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook (2014) Women’s 1950s Makeup: An Overview Available at: https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1950s-makeup/ (Accessed: 5th November 2020)

Hair and Makeup Artist Handbook (2013) Women’s 1950s Hairstyles: An Overview Available at: https://hair-and-makeup-artist.com/womens-1950s-hairstyles/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

Medium (No Date) The Glamour Girl Slayer; Harvey Glatman Available at: https://medium.com/the-true-crime-edition/the-glamour-girl-slayer-harvey-glatman-de2c49499b84 (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Polio Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/polio/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Scarlet Fever Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/scarlet-fever/#:~:text=The%20first%20signs%20of%20scarlet,it%20looks%20pink%20or%20red (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Diphtheria Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/diphtheria/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Typhoid fever Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/typhoid-fever/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Yellow Fever Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/yellow-fever/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Rheumatic Fever Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/rheumatic-fever/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

Medline Plus (2020) Pellagra Available at: https://medlineplus.gov/ency/article/000342.htm (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2019) Flu Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/flu/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

CSC (2016) Smallpox Available at: https://www.cdc.gov/smallpox/index.html (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

NHS (2018) Cholera Available at: https://www.nhs.uk/conditions/cholera/ (Accessed: 7th November 2020)

CDC (2020) Cholera Available at: https://www.cdc.gov/cholera/illness.html (Accessed: 7th November 2020)


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